Just came back from Miller. OK, let's talk about it Hawaiian style, so dear to Ivo's heart
The white puppies of the shore break were mostly in the 2ft range, while on the outside, at least as far as I went, which wasn't very far, they were double that size.
A few of them caressed my neck like a wahine strumming her ukelele.
Once or twice my board patted me gently on the head but I had a helmet on.
Oh, screw it... it was a bit scary on the outside but plenty of fun. I learned quite a bit. Most importantly, how quickly you can take off after a spill when another set is approaching...
I hope more people will be showing up during the day, there were just two guys by the pier when I came, and later only 3 more showed up...
Very nice to meet you in person, Bryce.